A Week in Rottingdean

Two summers ago, we spent a week in a quaint little town by the sea called Rottingdean.

Don’t ask me how I found this tiny piece of heaven on earth.

The kids were at summer camp in the English countryside, and my husband and I had a rare week to ourselves. We wanted to stay somewhere close by, but somewhere that felt different.

After weeks of research, and for those who know me, you know how much planning goes into building my itineraries, I settled on Rottingdean. How I plan trips is a topic I get asked about often. I’ll save that for another post.

Back to Rottingdean.

This little seaside village sits quietly on the coast of East Sussex, just outside Brighton. It feels like a place time decided to leave alone.

It also has stories. Rudyard Kipling once lived here and wrote some of his famous Just So Stories while in the village. Rottingdean also has a smuggling past. Hidden tunnels, contraband moved inland under the cover of darkness, and a windmill on the hill that was said to signal when the coast was clear. Even the board game Cluedo traces some of its inspiration back to this village. Strange little facts that somehow make it even more charming.

Driving in, we were taken into a very different world from what we were used to in London. The roads were tighter. The turns sharper. Not a single high-rise building in sight.

Instead, rows of small houses dotted the streets, home to little cafés, pubs, florists, and grocers. We drove by a creek, through gardens, and then suddenly, the sea appeared.

What a view.

Tiny streets

We stayed at The White Horses, a newly reopened seaside hotel with uninterrupted sea views and a thoughtful refurbishment that leaned into coastal calm. Originally a coaching inn over 300 years ago, it was lovingly restored and reopened in 2024 as part of the Everly Hotels Collection - in fact, a few weeks prior to us arriving.

A quick tip if you go, pay attention when booking your room. The hotel is split across two buildings, and not every room has air conditioning. In summer, that matters.

It’s a small hotel with a small crew. Not your typical polished hotel operation, if you know what I mean. The concierge was also the receptionist, and also the one helping us with our bags.

And somehow, that made it even better. Warm. Personal. Real.

The restaurant was excellent. The café by the sea had a wonderful selection of food and drinks. Service was thoughtful and kind.

We spent our days walking through town, hiking the coastal paths, and stopping often to take in views that didn’t look real.

Brighton was only ten minutes away, so we drove there often and explored more of the southern coast.

But what stayed with me most was something else. Stillness.

For one week, my husband and I experienced the beauty of doing absolutely nothing. No rushing. No planning. No schedule.

Just slow mornings, long walks, sea air, and quiet.

And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.