Magical Madeira

We went to Madeira last August.

A short flight from Porto. Just over an hour. And then you land somewhere that doesn’t feel real.

You’re flying low over the ocean, cliffs on either side, and then suddenly… there it is. A strip of land that looks like it’s floating. Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is known as one of the most challenging landings in the world. The runway was extended out over the ocean, supported by concrete pillars. Apparently, pilots need special training to land here.

We stayed in Barceló Funchal Oldtown. Right in the heart of Funchal. Everything was walkable. Easy. Exactly what you want when you’re traveling with family.

Mornings were slow. Coffee. Fresh fruit. No rush to be anywhere. Then we’d head out.

Madeira isn’t a place you sit still in. You drive. You explore. You stop every few minutes because the view constantly changes and the viewpoints are endless.

We asked the concierge how we should explore the island. His recommendation was to take a local cab. We weren’t sure at first, but we went with it. And let me tell you, that was a smart move. Taxis have access to roads that regular cars don’t. The drivers are also so knowledgeable about the island that no Google map or online guide can match. Needless to say, we saw so much of the island, and in true local fashion.

We spent time at Seixal Beach. Black sand, dramatic cliffs, and water that didn’t look real. We explored Porto Moniz, where we swam in volcanic natural seawater pools filled by Atlantic tides. That was an unforgettable experience. Then there was Fanal Forest. Quiet. Misty. Almost surreal. The kind of place that doesn’t feel like Europe at all.

We drove through the mountains with no real plan. And those ended up being the best days.

We ate well. Really well.

Kampo by Chef Júlio Pereira was a standout. Simple ingredients, done properly. Joy Restaurant felt a bit more modern, but still relaxed. And 1811 Bistrô became one of those easy go-to spots when you don’t want to think too much… just good food and a nice atmosphere.

Evenings were my favorite. We’d walk around the neighborhood near the hotel. No reservations. No pressure. Just picking a place that felt right.

Small restaurants. Warm lighting. People lingering over dinner.

The kids relaxed. We slowed down.

And that doesn’t always happen on trips.

Madeira felt different. Not loud. Not overdone. Just quietly beautiful. One of those places you don’t feel the need to document every second. You just let it happen.

And somehow, those are the ones you remember most.